Having read Peter Hessler’s more recent stories about China, I thought it would be interesting to read about his first stay in China, when he was a Peace Corps volunteer in 1996 and 1997. River Town
has the same authentic, even raw feel of the recent stories. The author doesn’t hesitate to show himself struggling with learning Chinese, being heckled by rude locals, pursued by the local massage parlor girls, or even, a rare event, acting as a malcontent bully. It’s a wonder that the man is still allowed to live in China!
But the focus is on the locals, who sometimes criticize the regime in surprising harsh terms but generally toe the heavily policed line, and whose lives mirror the regime decisions thousands of miles away. Because he was teaching English in a college many of the stories are about his students, who are for the most part children of farmers (or “peasants”, as they say) and whose lives are doubly regimented by cultural norms and politics, but who still manage to select poetic English names, including Mo Money (!) and Rebecca for a boy, and who can turn almost any literary discussion into telling commentary on current affairs.